Aberlady Stole

We moved house about six months ago, and four months after that I finally managed to get around to finding a home for the several boxes of books that still hadn’t been unpacked. Loading them onto the shelves, I came across one of my partner’s books that I’d never really sat and looked at properly before – Celtic Design: Maze Patterns, by Aidan Meehan. I put it to one side, and looking through it later that day formed the beginnings of an idea which culminated in the design I’ve been working on for the last two months.

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The maze motif used in this pattern is an extended version of a design from a stone discovered in the village of Aberlady, in East Lothian. The stone is a fragment of an 8th century Celtic high cross which would, in its original, complete form, have stood around 17 feet high, and the sculptural designs it bears are in a style similar to that of the illuminations in the Lindisfarne Gospels, a unique combination of Celtic and Anglo-Saxon artistic styles.

(This is one of the simpler maze designs in the book – Aidan Meehan is an expert in this field and a supremely talented artist, if you’d like to see some of his work he has a blog, which contains a wealth of beautiful things, along with fascinating insights into their creation.)

Study of the other details worked on this fragment directed my choice of edging, a variation of the Shetland lace pattern ‘Print o’ the Wave’. There is an optional decorative element to the edging, using either knitted nupps (for which instructions are given), or beads.

The pattern gives explicit instructions for 2 different widths, 19″ and 23″, and 2 lengths, 66″ and 82″, plus detailed comments on calculating at least 5 further lengths ranging between these two. The Print o’ the Wave and maze patterns are described both in written and charted form.

The stole is knit in 2ply laceweight yarn using 4mm needles. It is constructed simply, by knitting up from the bottom border until the main section is complete and then grafting to an identical top border – the grafting technique is described within the pattern.

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This pattern is available as a PDF download supplied by Ravelry – you do not need a Ravelry account to purchase. Payment is via Paypal, price £4.00 GBP (Paypal will convert other currencies automatically).

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I have ideas in the works for further labyrinthine lace pieces – this was challenging, and fun, and I’m certain it can only get more interesting from here. Looking into the knotwork designs that appear alongside the mazes in much of the art I’ve been looking at has also piqued my interest re cables – I expect a few knotwork pieces may appear too.

In researching the stone discovered at Aberlady, I discovered that there is a reconstruction currently being worked on by the Aberlady Conservation Society, due to be erected some time this year.

http://www.ruralgateway.org.uk/en/node/471

http://www.scotsman.com/latestnews/Village-to-bear-its-cross.4494828.jp

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Bokaclava revisited…

I’ve recently had a request – from the very first person to contact me about the Bokaclava, way back last October – for some extra detail on the finishing of the Bokaclava – notably, the forehead seaming and the insertion of the ears.

I intend to knit up a Bokaclava and take some photos of the process, but at the moment I’m still all wrapped up in the Mysterious Lace Whatnot Project… so here’s some of the original Bokaclava photos, with added arrows and all-new notes. Clicking on the pictures will take you to larger versions on flickr if you need to see them in greater detail.

Seaming the forehead and back sections

Firstly you need to find the centre point on both the forehead ribbing and the cast off edge of the back section.

bokcentrepoint copy

Seam across the top of the cast off edge to the corner where it meets the selvedge – you will still have some ribbing left unseamed, and should turn the corner and continue seaming down the selvedge of the back.

bokcorner

Repeat for the other side of the forehead.

Attaching ears

bokearseambeginning

Find the point on the ear where the increases along the pointed edges stop, and the circular section begins. Find the top of the forehead ribbing, and begin seaming along this selvedge, and the pointed edge of the ear.

bokearpointsewing1

When you are approximately 1″ from the point of the ear, fold it back on itself and sew together.

bokearpointsewing2

Continue sewing around selvedge, seaming it to the second side of the point, thus creating the back of the ear –

bokearpointsewing3

Continue sewing around the circular part of the ear until you reach the point where you began.

bokearpointsewing4

Hope that’s helpful!

Molecule

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A knit version of the acrylonitrile molecule, as used in the production of acrylic fibres, represented as a ball and stick model.

This pattern is also available as a free PDF download, provided by ravelry.

NB: This pattern requires the knitter to crochet a chain to start each sphere.

Yarn : Any DK weight
Needles : 3.75mm DPNs
1 crochet needle (3.5 or 4mm)
Gauge : 20sts/29 rows to 4”

Ball

You will need seven of these to make your molecule: 3 in white (hydrogen), 3 in light grey (carbon), and 3 in blue (nitrogen).

Using scrap yarn, crochet a chain of 34 stitches. Knot the end.

Turn the chain over, and find the ‘bumps’ running down the centre of the chain – using DPNs, knit a stitch into each bump, until you have 32 stitches on your needles. Join to work in the round.

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Work as follows –

Row 1 : knit.
Row 2 : (k6, k2tog) to end (28 sts).
Row 3 : knit.
Row 4 : (k5, k2tog) to end (24 sts).
Row 5 : knit.
Row 6 : (k4, k2tog) to end (20 sts).
Row 7 : knit.
Row 8 : (k3, k2tog) to end (16 sts).
Row 9 : (k2, k2tog) to end (12 sts).
Row 10: (k1, k2tog) to end (8 sts).

Cut yarn leaving longish tail; run through these 8 sts and pull closed.

Undo knot in end of scrap yarn crochet chain, and begin to ‘unzip’, placing live stitches onto DPNs (32 sts in total).

Work rows 1-10; stuff ball with waste yarn or stuffing and close as before. Using a needle, run both ends through into the ball to hide ends.

Stick

These come in three varieties – single, double and triple. Leave a tail of around 10cm when casting on and off, to use when stuffing later.

Single bonds

You will need four of these – one in light grey, and three in light grey/white.

Single colour single bond

Cast on 9 stitches. Work I-cord for first couple of rows, then switch to DPNs.

Knit 14 rounds in total; cast off.

Two colour single bond

Cast on 9 stitches with light grey yarn. Work I-cord for first couple of rows, then switch to DPNs.

Knit 7 rounds in total; break yarn.

Join white yarn and knit further 7 rounds; cast off.

Double bonds

You will need two of these in light grey.
Cast on 6 stitches and work I-cord for 14 rows.
Cast off.

Triple bonds

You will need three of these in light grey/royal blue.

Cast on 6 stitches with light grey yarn. Work I-cord for 7 rows; break yarn.

Join royal blue yarn and knit further 7 rounds; cast off.

Stuff sticks firmly, using ends of yarn and waste yarn in the same colours.

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Assembly

Sew together as shown in top photo. It’s been a while since I went anywhere near a laboratory, so the positioning of the bonds is likely not 100% accurate, but all the atoms are in the right place – I didn’t want my molecule to be entirely flat, so I used a little artistic licence, but so long as you check that the balls are in the right place relative to one another, and you don’t have more than 4 bonds for each grey (carbon) ball, 3 for the blue (nitrogen) and 1 for the white (hydrogen), I reckon you’re laughing.

You could stuff jingly bells into the balls – I’ve also been thinking that pipe-cleaners inside the sticks might be an idea for bendy fun, if you aren’t going to let it anywhere near babies and/or small children… and toying with the idea of making various colours of ball, not stitching them together, and using velcro patches in the appropriate places.

Oh, and for maximum ha! value, it should be knitted using 100% wool.

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More molecules – acetone, benzene and ethanol – can be found here –

A lot of balls

The Innsmouth look…

The webbed claw is finished – it’s a little more ‘Innsmouth degeneration’, than ‘dragon’s claw’, admittedly.

Pattern reproduced below, or alternatively, available as a PDF download, via ravelry.

Errata – Cast on originally given as 32 sts, now corrected to 28 sts.

innsmouth1

innsmouth2

~ INNSMOUTH ~

Gauge: 19sts/27 rows over 4″
Yarn shown here is the same as that used for the Cthulhuclava/Dracoclava – an acrylic/wool blend in an aran weight (Wendy Aran With Wool). Any aran weight yarn that gives the right gauge can be substituted.

With 4mm DPNs, cast on 28 stitches. Join, taking care not to twist, and work 3×1 rib for 7 rows.
Work stocking stitch for 17 rows.
Next: (k4, m1) to end (35 sts).
Work stocking stitch for 17 rows.
Next: (k7, m1) to end (40 sts).
Work stocking stitch for 7 rows.
Next: (k8, m1) to end (45 sts).
Work stocking stitch for 4 rows.
Next: (k9, m1) to end (50 sts).
Knit 1 row.
Place stitches on stitch holders.

Take first five and last five stitches, and place on 4mm DPNs. Rejoin yarn and knit 3 rows.
Next: k3; (k2tog) x2; k2; k3.
Next: k2; (k2tog) x2; k2.
Graft ends.

Place remaining 40 stitches on DPNs. Rejoin yarn and knit round, picking up one stitch either side of thumb to close holes (42 sts).
Place first sixteen and last sixteen stitches on stitch holder. Place remaining 10 sts on DPNs; rejoin yarn and knit 4 rows.
Next: k2tog; k6; k2tog (8 sts).
Next: k2tog; k4; k2tog (6 sts).
Graft ends.

Place 32 stitches back on DPNs. k16; pick up stitch either side of little finger; k16 (34 stitches).
Knit 7 rows.
Place first 11 and last 11 stitches on stitch holders, and 12 at end (for ring finger) onto DPNs. Rejoin yarn and knit 6 rows.
Then decrease as follows –
k5; k2tog; k4; k2tog (10 sts).
k4; k2tog; k3; k2tog (8 sts).
k3; k2tog; k2; k2tog (6 sts).
k2; k2tog; k1; k2tog (4 sts).
k2tog twice (2 sts).
Cast off.

Place 22sts back on DPNs. Join yarn.
k11; pick up 2 either side of ring finger; k11 (24 sts).
Knit 4 rows.
Place first 6 and last 6 stitches onto DPNs and save middle 12 on stitch holder.
Knit 1 row.
Then decrease as follows –
k5; k2tog; k4; k2tog (10 sts).
k4; k2tog; k3; k2tog (8 sts).
k3; k2tog; k2; k2tog (6 sts).
k2; k2tog; k1; k2tog (4 sts).
k2tog twice (2 sts).
Cast off.

Attach yarn at last 12 sts.
Knit round; pick up 2 sts either side of of index finger (14 sts).
Knit 3 more rows.
Then decrease as follows –
K6; k2tog; k5; k2tog (12sts).
k5; k2tog; k4; k2tog (10 sts).
k4; k2tog; k3; k2tog (8 sts).
k3; k2tog; k2; k2tog (6 sts).
k2; k2tog; k1; k2tog (4 sts).
k2tog twice (2 sts).
Cast off.

These instructions are for both left and right gloves.

Finished glove will fit from a child age 10+ up to a medium adult size.

This pattern is free for personal use, and not to be used or knit for resale or profit.

Squamous and eldritch…

..no, not my feet.

The Bokaclava’s started something. I had intended something a little less daft – a lacy something-or-other, a pair of gloves, something a bit nice (no, really) as my next project – but somehow these jumped the queue.

Another two peculiarclavas, the Cthulhuclava and the Dracoclava. Available as ravelry downloads for the princely sum of £3.50 (GBP) apiece, they’re constructed along similar lines to the Bokaclava (with a little I-cord work thrown in for good measure) and also knit with aran weight yarn on 4mm double pointed needles.

PICT0220PICT0222
PICT0221Click here to buy downloadable PDF of the Cthulhuclava

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Click here to buy downloadable PDF of the Dracoclava

I’m currently working on a pattern for a pair of webbed claw gloves, for the Old One that loves to accessorise – it’ll be a free pattern, and hopefully will be up in the next few days.

Email aminspace(at)gmail.com with enquiries if you are interested in ordering a balaclava ready-handknit by me. Various colours available.

Mad as a boks of frogs

Note to self: do not expect to painlessly publish PDFs whilst doing anything else at all (particularly if it involves small children and/or having a head cold, and especially not if it’s the first PDF you’ve ever attempted).

Several updates (and much swearing at OpenOffice/tables/the missing keys on my laptop) later, I finally have a Bokaclava pattern PDF that resembles the one in this post.

I also have the small (18-20″) version of the pattern completed, and PDF’d. It’s the same construction, just a few alterations to stitch and row counts, but from what I’ve read, ravelry would rather I listed child-sized versions of patterns separately. (Only the second version, too – the stitch count initially for the wrapped stitch/saved stitch bit of the short row eyebrows was out, I just noticed – it’s not, now.)

—>Click here to download the PDF<—

bokjr

Bokaclava Jr – fits 18-20″ head circ.

Pattern

Gauge: 19sts/27 rows over 4″ with 4mm needles.
Yarn : Any wool blend that gives the right gauge and creates a fairly stiff fabric with 4mm needles, but is soft enough to wear against the face, is suitable – eg RYC Cashsoft Aran, Sirdar Bonus Aran.

With 4mm needles, cast on 64 sts. Join, being careful not to twist; work 3×1 rib in the round for 13 rows.
Knit stocking stitch for the next 19 rows.

Make mouth and nose opening

Next row – knit 10 sts. Break yarn; knit next 12 sts with scrap yarn to make mouth later. Rejoin yarn and knit to end.
Knit 6 rows in stocking stitch.
Next row: knit 12 sts; break yarn, knit 8 sts with scrap yarn, rejoin – knit 12 sts. Place next 32 sts on stitch holder – these stitches will be the back, and are worked separately. Turn work and purl back across first 32 sts.
Knit 10 rows stocking stitch, flat.

Make eyeholes –

Next row (right side) –
k6, CO7, k6, CO7, k5.
Next row (wrong side) –
p6, m7, p6, m7, p6.
Knit 4 rows stocking stitch.

Short row eyebrows

1st eyebrow –
Row 1 : k15; slip last stitch, wrap and turn (as in short row technique).
Row 2 : p14. Save last stitch on stitch holder, unwrapped.
Row 3 : k to last unwrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 4 : p to last unsaved stitch; save last stitch on stitch holder.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 4 sts remain ‘live’, 6 are wrapped, and 6 are on stitch holder.
Next row (right side) : knit across the 4 live stitches; pick up and knit into back of wrapped stitches until all are live again.
2nd eyebrow –
Row 1 : Knit across to last stitch; save last stitch on stitch holder. Turn but do not wrap.
Row 2 : p14, wrap next stitch and turn.
Row 3 : k to last stitch; save on stitch holder. Turn.
Row 4 : p to last unwrapped stitch; wrap and turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 4 sts remain live, 6 are wrapped and 6 on stitch holder.
Next (right side) row – k4.
Next row – k across to wrapped stitches; pick up and knit to bridge of nose. Knit across first eyebrow, thus creating garter stitch ‘eyebrows’.
Knit 2 rows in stocking stitch for forehead. Break yarn.
Rejoin yarn beside first saved stitch to the right of the first eyebrow, to knit 2×2 rib forehead (as you knit across them, pick up 7 stitches between these, and a further 7 between the corresponding saved stitches on other stitch holder upon reaching them) knit 10 rows of 2×2 rib across all stitches (46 sts). Cast off.

Side ribbing

Pick up six stitches at side of head leading up to forehead ribbing (see photos). Work 14 rows in 2×2 rib, cast off.

BACK

Rejoin yarn; knit 50 rows in stocking stitch.


Make holes for horns

With RS facing – k8; break yarn, k4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, k8; break yarn, k4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, k8.
Next row (WS) : p8; break yarn, p4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, p8; break yarn, p4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, p8.
Knit 8 more rows stocking stitch and cast off.

Mattress stitch side ribs to side of forehead rib.
Sew top of forehead ribbing to back of knitting along the cast off edge and down the sides with a flat seam (see photos).

Make mouth and tongue

Undo scrap yarn and using 4mm DPNs pick up stitches either side (24 sts). Knit 5 rows stst.
Dec 1 stitch either side until 12 sts remain.
Knit 4 rows stocking stitch.
Dec 1 stitch either side until 6 sts remain. Graft remaining 6 sts together.
Create mouth and tongue by pushing all but the last 13 rows back into the mouth opening and sewing down.

Nose

Undo scrap yarn. Cast off lower stitches. Dec 1 stitch at each end of each row of upper stitches to make a point, and fasten off, use tail end of yarn to sew down just above mouth.

Make horns

Undo all scrap yarn; put 4 live stitches from each edge onto DPNs, and pick up 2 sts from rows at either side of hole – 12 stitches. Knit 12 rounds.
Next row : k2, k2tog; repeat until 9 stitches remain.
Knit five rounds.
Next row : k7, k2tog (8 sts).
Graft ends.

Ears

Left ear –

Cast on 3 sts and knit stocking stitch for 2 rows.
k1; m1; k2 (4sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; k2; m1; k1 (6 sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; knit to last st; m1; k1 (8 sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; k to end (9 sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; k to last stitch; m1; k1 (11 sts)
Next row: purl.
Knit to last st; m1; k1 (12 sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; knit to last stitch; m1; k1 (14 sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; knit to end (15 sts)
Next row: purl.
k1; m1; knit to last stitch; m1; k1 (17 sts)
Next row: purl.
k to last stitch; m1; k1 (18 sts)
~~~~~
Make 54 stitches, join taking care not to twist (72 sts)
Knit round these 72 sts.
Next row: k4, k2tog; repeat (60 sts)
Knit two rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog; repeat (40 sts)
Knit two rows.
Next row: k2tog; repeat (20 sts)
Knit two rows.
Next row: k2tog; repeat (10sts)
Last row as above (5 sts)

Right ear –

Reverse instructions to ~~~~~~ then continue as for left ear.

Making up

Attaching ears

The ears are knit so that the tops of the points are to be folded over on themselves, adding thickness, creating a ‘back’ to the ear and making them more three dimensional.

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This is done as follows –
Sew the part of the ear where the circular knitting begins to the top of the ribbed edge section of the opening created for the ear.
Sew up edge of point along side of head, until 1” from end of point. Fold point down on itself, and stitch down. Sew seam between other edge of point and side seam of the back of the balaclava, until you reach the circular part of the ear. Sew circular part to rest of opening.
Run a few stitches through upper ear to add definition.

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Weave in ends.

Handwash and dry flat; shape while drying.

This pattern is free for personal use, and not to be reproduced, used or knit for resale or profit.

Now, where did I put that darkened room?

Monster monster…

…post.

Update 20/10/2008 8.15pm GMT – a free PDF download is now available for this pattern. I’ve hopefully made a few of the instructions a little clearer, and have tidied up the formatting.

9.41pm GMT – Noticed two lines missing from PDF! Now reinstated and updated (and sworn at).
21/10/2008 – Hopefully that’s it, because not only were two lines missing, the whole section for the ears had vanished too. That’s also now reinstated, and the new link is below.

—->Click here to download<—-

The small/child’s size pattern is now available, here on my blog, and here as a PDF download

Update – extra info on seaming can be found in this blog post –

Bokaclava revisited

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By way of a brief explanation – Bok is a gargoyle/demon in a classic Doctor Who story called ‘The Daemons’. My partner, mere weeks after we first met, asked me if it would be possible to knit a ‘bokaclava’, complete with sticky out tongue.

(The answer to that is yes, obviously…)

I’m currently working on a child’s size pattern, so keep an eye out for updates.

Pattern

Gauge: 19sts/27 rows over 4″ with 4mm needles.

Fits 20″ – 23″ head circumference.

Yarn : Initially, I made this with RYC Cashsoft Aran, as I found it on sale at John Lewis, but any wool blend that gives the right gauge and creates a fairly stiff fabric with 4mm needles, but is soft enough to wear against the face, is suitable – I’ve used more affordable yarn since (eg Sirdar Bonus Aran, 20% wool/80% acrylic) with great results. I’ve not tried a wool-free substitute yet, so can’t personally recommend any for those with allergies.

Sirdar Bonus Aran, in Cherry –

demonheadpop

With 4mm needles, cast on 72 sts. Join, being careful not to twist; work 3×1 rib in the round for 13 rows.

Knit stocking stitch for the next 22 rows.

Make mouth and nose opening

Next row – knit 12 sts. Break yarn; knit next 12 sts with scrap yarn to make mouth later. Rejoin yarn and knit to end.

Knit 7 rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: knit 14 sts; break yarn, knit 8 sts with scrap yarn, rejoin – knit 14 sts. Place next 36 sts on stitch holder – these stitches will be the back, and are worked separately. Turn work and purl back across first 36 sts.

Knit 12 rows stocking stitch, flat.

Make eyeholes

Next row (right side) –

k7, CO8, k6, CO8, k6.

Next row (wrong side) –

p7, m8, p6, m8, p7.

Knit 4 rows stocking stitch.

Short row eyebrows

k17; slip last stitch, wrap and turn (as in short row technique).
p16. Save last stitch on stitch holder.
k to last stitch, wrap and turn etc – continue with these rows until 4 sts remain ‘live’, 7 are wrapped, and 7 are on stitch holder.

Next row –

K4; pick up and knit into back of wrapped stitches until all are live again.

Next eyebrow – knit to last stitch; save last stitch on stitch holder. Turn.

~~~~

P16, wrap next stitch and turn.

K to last stitch; save on stitch holder.

P to last unwrapped stitch; wrap and turn.

Rep. from ~~~~ until 4 sts remain live, 7 are wrapped and 7 on stitch holder.

Next row – k4.

Next row – k across to wrapped stitches; pick up and knit to bridge of nose. Knit across first eyebrow, creating garter stitch ‘eyebrows’.

Knit 2 rows in stocking stitch for forehead. Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn and pick up 8 stitches between stitches on stitchholders; knit 12 rows of 2×2 rib across all stitches (52 sts).

Cast off.

BACK

Rejoin yarn; knit 58 rows in stocking stitch.

Make holes for horns

With RS facing – k10; break yarn, k4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, k8; break yarn, k4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, k10.

Next row – p10; break yarn, k4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, p8; break yarn, k4 on scrap yarn; rejoin yarn, p10.

Knit 10 rows stocking stitch; cast off.

Make mouth and tongue

Undo scrap yarn and using 4mm DPNs pick up stitches either side (24 sts). Knit 5 rows stst.

Dec 1 stitch either side until 12 sts remain.

Knit 4 rows stocking stitch.

Dec 1 stitch either side until 6 sts remain. Graft remaining 6 sts together.

Create mouth and tongue by pushing all but the last 13 rows back into the mouth opening and sewing down.

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Nose

Undo scrap yarn. Cast off lower stitches. Dec 1 stitch at each end of each row of upper stitches to make a point, and fasten off, use tail end of yarn to sew down just above mouth.

Side ribbing

Pick up six stitches at side of head leading up to forehead ribbing (see photos). Work 14 rows in 2×2 rib, cast off.

Ears

Left ear –

Cast on 3 sts and knit stocking stitch for 2 rows.

k1; m1; k2 (4sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; k2; m1; k1 (6 sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; knit to last st; m1; k1 (8 sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; k to end (9 sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; k to last stitch; m1; k1 (11 sts)
Next row: purl.

Knit to last st; m1; k1 (12 sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; knit to last stitch; m1; k1 (14 sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; knit to end (15 sts)
Next row: purl.

k1; m1; knit to last stitch; m1; k1 (17 sts)
Next row: purl.

k to last stitch; m1; k1 (18 sts)

~~~~~~

Next row: purl.

Make 54 stitches, join taking care not to twist (72 sts)

Knit round these 72 sts.

Next row: k4, k2tog; repeat (60 sts)
Knit two rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog; repeat (40 sts)
Knit two rows.
Next row: k2tog; repeat (20 sts)
Knit two rows.
Next row: k2tog; repeat (10sts)
Last row as above (5 sts)
Loop yarn through last 5 sts and fasten off.

Right ear –

Reverse instructions to ~~~~~~ then continue as for left ear.

Mattress stitch side ribs to side of forehead rib.
Sew top of forehead ribbing to back of knitting along the cast off edge and down the sides with a flat seam (see photos).

Edited 5th June 2009 – for further details of this, and the attachment of the ears, see this post – https://thingsandideas.wordpress.com/2009/06/05/573/

Make horns

Undo all scrap yarn; put 4 live stitches from each edge onto DPNs, and pick up 2 from rows at either side of hole – 12 stitches.

Knit 12 rounds.

Next row:

k2, k2tog; repeat until 9 stitches remain. Knit five rounds.

Next row:

k7, k2tog (8 sts).

Graft ends.

Attaching ears

The ears are knitted so that the tops of the points are to be folded over on themselves, adding thickness, creating a ‘back’ to the ear and making them more three dimensional.

This is done as follows –

Sew the part of the ear where the circular knitting begins to the top of the ribbed edge section of the opening created for the ear.

Sew up edge of point along side of head, until 1” from end of point. Fold point down on itself, and stitch down. Sew seam between other edge of point and side seam of the back of the balaclava, until you reach the circular part of the ear. Sew circular part to rest of opening.

Run a few stitches through upper ear to add definition.

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PICT0007

Weave in ends.

PICT0004

Handwash and dry flat – shape while drying.

demonrighthead

And that’s it.

This pattern is free for personal use, and not to be used or knit for resale or profit.

Email aminspace(at)gmail.com with enquiries if you are interested in ordering a Bokaclava ready-handknit by me. Various colours available.